Flatironing 101: For Pin-straight hair Total Time: 130 minutes or 2 hours excluding airdrying time.
NOTE: Constant heat use can be detrimental to your hair “health.” With the proper techniques and equipment, you can prevent your hair from becoming damaged while using direct heat.
Blow dry and flat iron/press on clean hair only. Make sure that the iron/pressing comb that you use is also clean. I prefer an Ionic/Tourmaline flat iron, though I love my ceramic just as much. Tourmaline naturally produces negative ions. These negative charges help your hair stay sleek, get straight faster, and they leave your hair feeling healthy, soft and looking shiny.
If you want sleek/salon quality straightened hair, I have found the following method to be the most effective.
Prepare Your Hair
Wash your hair. I prefer using a shampoo made to help “straighten” the hair, but not one that strips my hair of moisture. I find that straightening shampoos/conditioners help my hair straighten easier. I like Pureology Super Straight shampoo and Tigi Bed Head Control Freak shampoo.
Next, I like to do a mild protein treatment before I use direct heat on my hair. Protein (I prefer hydrolyzed collagen) helps “fill gaps” in your hair making it stronger, it does not repair hair.
Deep condition. I specifically use a moisturizing deep conditioning conditioner. Right now I’m using Matrix Biolage Ultra Hydrating Balm mixed with a little Indian Vatika oil and Olive Oil. I deep condition with a plastic cap and heat for about 30 minutes.
Detangle your hair. Rinse hair well.
I rinse all of the deep conditioner out of my hair and then I detangle while my hair is saturated with a light conditioner. I use Pureology’s Super Straight conditioner or Herbal Essence’s Dangerously Straight conditioner. Both work well IMO. I comb first with my fingers, then my wide tooth comb, and I finish with a small tooth comb and the pressure of the water to get the shed hairs out. Rinse very well.
Loosely twist or braid your hair and let it air dry.
Locking in Moisture
When the hair is damp–not wet/not dry–add a small amount of leave in conditioner. Right now I’m using Paul Mitchell’s The Conditioner. Then add your heat protectant. I use RedKen Smooth Down Heat Glide. Divide hair in half and use one pump for each side of your head for this specific product. About a dime-sized all over for medium thick hair if you are using a silicon based protectant like I am. Too much will prevent your hair from getting it’s straightest.
Comb the heat protectant through.
Allow hair to air dry almost completely.
Blowdrying
After hair is 80-90% dry. Section hair. If you want to add a little more heat protectant, add it concentrating on your ends. Again, don’t add too much. I take a dime sized amount of Chi Silk Infusion and apply it to my entire head. I then divide my hair into fourths and then into fourths again.
Starting from the back, begin to blow-dry your hair. The sleeker your blow-dry, the better your end results. I still use my Ionic blow-dryer with the comb attachment because I’m not coordinated enough to use a nozzle and round brush. A Tourmaline/Ionic dryer (or ceramic) with a nozzle attachment and a boar bristle round brush (with vents) are ideal.
Blow dry at a comfortable temperature starting at the roots. As you go down the hair shaft, use the brush to hold the hair taut (not to brush the hair, you want to prevent breakage.) Using the brush and nozzle also helps prevent the hair from the tangling. Work the brush and the dryer down to the ends.
This should not take long since you’ve air dried.
Flat Ironing
Depending on your hair texture, adjust the temperature of your flat iron to somewhere between 310 and 410 degrees Fahrenheit. The lower the temperature, the more passes you may have to make over each section with the flat iron. Find the right temperature for your hair so that you do not cause damage. If you are using a pressing comb, test the heat of the iron on a tissue. The comb should not scorch the tissue.
Because this is a tutorial for a pin straight look, you will be sectioning your freshly blow dried hair into small 1-2 inch X 1 inch sections. Please note that this is time consuming.
Starting at the roots, glide the flat iron down the hair to the ends. [If you are using a Maxiglide, start halfway down the hair, steam burst to the ends. On your second pass, start at the roots--no steam burst.]
On your second pass you will use the comb chase method. If you don’t have a flat iron comb, use a rat tail comb. The first pass should have been enough to get your roots straight. [Remember that the blowdryer should have already made your roots pretty relaxed.] Place the flat iron about two inches from your roots. Place the flat iron comb or rat tail comb directly beneath the flat iron, pushing it into your hair. Slowly chase the comb with the flat iron down your hair, following through to the ends. This is especially important if you have highly textured hair. The teeth help stretch the hair, giving your ends the sleekest look possible.
If you want, run the flat iron over the hair a third time, roots to tips, for an even straighter look.
When your entire head is flat ironed, take a tiny bit of serum (Frizz Ease, Chi Silk Infusion, etc.) and blot it on your ends. I call this the final moisture seal. Maintain sleekness and moisture by adding light oil products on hair as needed until next wash. I like to use coconut oil on my edges and ends and a tiny amount, less than dime sized, of Chi Silk Infusion all over. The heavier the product, the heavier your hair will appear and feel. Avoid water-based products if you are natural or lightly texturized or your hair will revert.
Time broken down:
Shampoo – 5 minutes
Protein Treatment – 10 minutes
Deep Conditioning – 30 minutes
Detangling – 10 minutes
Airdrying (adjustable, not counted)
Blow drying – 15 minutes
Flat Ironing – 1 hour (Depending on your hair texture, your hair thickness, your technique, your equipment.)
You have such beautiful hair!
Have a Happy Thanksgiving!